Golf’s biggest advancements have come via dramatic improvements in ball construction. Compared to 30 years ago, today’s golf ball travels farther, rolls longer, doesn’t lose its round, flies straighter, and won’t split
its cover if you look at it wrong. Precisely engineered dimple patterns have allowed manufacturers to alter
everything from trajectory to spin rates. As a result of these breakthroughs, players now have the opportunity to choose and play the best ball for their games.
Years ago, everyone played with a soft, easy-cutting, natural rubber, balata-covered ball–whether you were a scratch player or a 25 handicap. Today, you’re lucky to have numerous choices. However, options don’t necessarily make things easier. In fact, finding the right ball for your game can be confusing. Rather than have you spend hours researching your options, here it comes in a nutshell.
Ball Types
There are two main classes of balls: spin, and distance.
Spin: (you guessed it) designed to spi n more. Often, they are of three-piece construction. A central core (liquid in the highest spin balls) is surrounded by rubber windings, which is often covered with a thin, soft material called balata. These balls spin more, making them easier to draw or fade, and they hold the green. They also have a softer feel but won’t travel as far as distance balls. Less expensive versions of these balls offer a measure of durability. Their cover is typically Surlyn (a durable, synthetic material) or a Surlyn blend, they may be two-piece rather than three-piece, and have a solid core.
Distance: Made with harder, more-durable covers and solid cores. Most are two piece. The inside of the distance ball is a firm synthetic material. The combined firmness of the cover and core allow the ball to travel longer distances and be very durable. However, these balls don’t spin a great amount. Less spin means less control and stopping ability in certai n cases. These have a harder feel than balls with wound construction.
Cover materials
Balata and Surlyn are ball-covering materials. But there are typically other differences between balata and surlyn balls besides the cover.
Balata:
A balata covered ball is typically a three-piece ball: a core wound with rubber and covered with balata. There has been a lot of discussion as to what “balata” is. Let’s just say that balata is a soft substance which leads to cuts and nicks. This “softness” is said to offer “better playability” which is to say that the golfer can “shape” his/her shot (fade/draw), and get more “action” (backspin) on the greens.
Surlyn:
A surlyn covered ball is typically a two-piece ball: a solid core with the surlyn cover. Surlyn is a man made
“uncuttable” substance which is designed to eliminate the cuts and nicks. The drawbacks of the harder ball are that it is more difficult to “shape” his/her sho t (fade/draw), and get “action” (backspin) on the greens.
Some general tips on choosing the best ball for your game:
Determine which compression is best for you: Compression is a measure of how hard the ball may feel – the higher the compression number the harder the feel (and the less it compresses during impact). A common misconception among players is that a 100-compression ball always flies farther. This is not true. Clubhead speed, rather than compression, is most important to distance. For some golfers, a lower-compression ball will fly farther.
Determine if you like two- or three-piece balls: Today, spin rates are a function of cover softness rather than construction. Still, a two-piece ball generally produces more distance and less spin, while a three-piece ball gives you more feel and additional spin. A three-piece ball often flies higher as well, because spin is what causes a golf ball to lift.
Pick a ball that suits your level of play: If you mis-hit or top the ball a lot, you’re not going to want an
easy-cutting balata-covered ball. Conversely, if you’re a scratch player, you’re not going to want something that feels hard and gives you less spin and control – even if it won’t cut.
Choose a ball that fits your budget: Golf is an expensive sport, and some balls cost more than pounds 5 a piece. Find the right ball for your budget. Often similar balls – of the same construction – vary greatly in price. Be conscious of this. Generally, balata-covered balls cost more, while the Surlyn covered balls cost less.
Consider the material: While most two-piece balls have a synthetic core that varies only in softness, some companies are now adding exotic materials such as tungsten and titanium. Companies claim that because these exotic materials are dense and the centre of gravity is more centrally located, the balls spin more. Some comp anies use these materials in ball covers, promising added feel and distance. Other companies use multilayer construction. These are higher-priced balls generally made with synthetic covers. They provide a good combination of durability, soft feel, and consistency.
Some common myths about golf balls
More dimples mean a higher trajectory:
Not true. The optimum number of dimples on a golf ball is between 350 and 450. Trajectory is determined by the dimple’s depth–not the number.
Golf balls travel farther when they are warm:
Somewhat true. Colder temperatures do decrease a ball’s velocity more than warm temperatures; although, the air temperature affects distance much more significantly than the temperature of the ball. The moral of the story is don’t bother putting the ball in the oven before teeing off. Your pocket will do just fine. A two-piece ball will have a little faster initial velocity off the clubface in cold weather, so keep that in mind next time the frost is on the ground.
